'Surf Science' looks at the science of waves from the surfers point of view. The book bridges the gap between surfing books and wave textbooks.
Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don't, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it--just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
This title covers coastal geology, climate and big waves, storminess and surf, searching for the biggest waves, controlling the waves, and coastal intervention.
Explains everything necessary to stay safe in the waves for surfers of all abilities, including dangerous marine animals, nutrition and hydration, and first aid and prevention for common injuries.
* Covers gear, fitness, safety, lingo, and rules of the water * Includes basic to intermediate techniques, surf culture, and competitive surfing * Author is an award-winning journalist and life-long surfer Surfing's not just for rebels anymore: anyone with the desire to ride a wave is grabbing a board and heading to the beach. Each year, this artform-cum-sport gains popularity as business executives, grandmas, teenagers, coastal dwellers, and adventure travelers get stoked to catch swells. This new guidebook by sports writer and waterman Elliott Almond is a primer for the uninitiated as well as a handbook for the experienced ready to build on their fundamental skills. Covering topics ranging from basic techniques to fitness prep (including exercises to get your arms ready for all that paddling and stretches to keep you limber) and from history, surf culture, and a complete explanation of gear, to how to find the right board for you, this book also features insights from industry leaders, pro surfers, and instructors. With more than three decades of surfing experience to share, Almond offers clear, authoritative guidance to help those venturing into uncharted waters find their way safely and confidently.
Expert instruction you need to take your skills from kook to boss Author John Robison uses hundreds of pictures-- comical, cartoon-like drawings--to clearly illustrate every aspect of surfing: wave dynamics, riding techniques, etiquette, logistics, and more. This entertaining, easy-to-understand visual presentation makes it easy for you to pick up his techniques and use them on the waves. Robison covers every aspect of the sport, from paddling out through the surf zone and catching and riding that first wave to nose riding, acrobatics, shortboard riding, and to equipment repairs.
Design innovations and a new appreciation for the grace and poise of surfing a longer board has lifted the art of longboarding back into the limelight and, more importantly, back into the minds of serious surfers who are looking to expand their wave riding experience. In the first half, Longboarder's Start-Up covers the basics of longboard equipment, wave selection, courtesy, and surfing technique through standing up. The second part gets into intermediate and advanced longboarding skills including: cross-stepping and trimming, turning maneuvers, essential noseriding and, finally, some of the breathtaking tricks that the pros execute so flawlessly. The key points are brought home with a stripped down text and photos featuring some of the best longboard surfers on earth, including Ted Robinson, Colin McPhillips, Jeff Kramer and Mark Stewart.
The man behind the WaveCastr surf forecasts at WetSand.com, Nathan Todd Cool, takes surf forecasting one step further, showing how you can make surf forecasts with simple calculations and free, publicly available data. The WetSand WaveCastr Guide to Surf Forecasting explains in easy to understand terms the science behind waves, winds, water temperatures, tidal swings, and more. Learn how to predict when swells will arrive, how big waves will be, and telltale signs of common hazards. Find out how to predict winds, forecast temperature fluctuations, and foresee anomalies like upwelling, and coastal eddies. Discover how to track tropical cyclones and how seasonal phenomena affect them. A first of its kind, this informative resource will lead you from start to finish through the steps necessary to make surf forecasts, and refine them over time. Written for both the novice and experienced water sport enthusiast, this book is truly a must-have for those who love to participate with the power of the ocean.
Secrets to Progressive Surfing is not your average learn to surf book aimed at getting beginners up and riding. This is a detailed analysis of what it takes to master just about every maneuver in the book, from the humble take-off to the modern aerial and everything in between. The text is clear and understandable, broken down into logical step by step progressions, shedding light on the techniques used by the pros. And what better pro to demonstrate the required skills in beautifully photographed sequences than Kelly Slater, 11 times World Champ, who plays a starring role in this incredible book that has something for every surfer on the planet.
From Susan Casey, bestselling author of The Devil’s Teeth, an astonishing book about colossal, ship-swallowing rogue waves and the surfers who seek them out. For centuries, mariners have spun tales of gargantuan waves, 100-feet high or taller. Until recently scientists dis­missed these stories—waves that high would seem to violate the laws of physics. But in the past few decades, as a startling number of ships vanished and new evidence has emerged, oceanographers realized something scary was brewing in the planet’s waters. They found their proof in February 2000, when a British research vessel was trapped in a vortex of impossibly mammoth waves in the North Sea—including several that approached 100 feet. As scientists scramble to understand this phenomenon, others view the giant waves as the ultimate challenge. These are extreme surfers who fly around the world trying to ride the ocean’s most destructive monsters. The pioneer of extreme surfing is the legendary Laird Hamilton, who, with a group of friends in Hawaii, figured out how to board suicidally large waves of 70 and 80 feet. Casey follows this unique tribe of peo­ple as they seek to conquer the holy grail of their sport, a 100­-foot wave. In this mesmerizing account, the exploits of Hamilton and his fellow surfers are juxtaposed against scientists’ urgent efforts to understand the destructive powers of waves—from the tsunami that wiped out 250,000 people in the Pacific in 2004 to the 1,740-foot-wave that recently leveled part of the Alaskan coast. Like Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air, The Wave brilliantly portrays human beings confronting nature at its most ferocious.
Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.
Traces the recent discovery of physics-defying ocean waves at heights previously thought impossible, describing the efforts of the scientific community to understand the phenomenon, the pursuits of extreme surfers to ride these waves, and the destructivecapabilities of tsunamis.
For the first time, the Who's who of surfing divulge their secrets in one book! From selecting a board, to survival tips, competition surfing, health and nutrition, there is no other book that provides such in depth and expert knowledge. Includes photo montages of all the key moves, in depth ocean knowledge, tricks, airs, big wave surfing and much much more. "You can't get better advice from better surfers anywhere." - Taj Burrow
Surfing: A Beginner’s Guide has been the go-to surf book for beginners since 1996. This third edition now with the endorsement of Surfing England takes you through all the vital steps to become a surfer: you will learn where to surf when to surf and how to surf safely.You will learn the foundations such as choosing the correct equipment which is essential to make any progress as a beginner; pre-surf preparation including getting fit with tips and advice; and your first surfer steps on the beach and in the ocean. All these stages lead up to you catching your very first wave and the surfing bug. The sea is renowned for its beauty but infamous for its dangers. Alf provides you with transferable skills to safely enjoy your new hobby. Safety features heavily in the book and you will learn all the basic common-sense aspects of surfing that even the most experienced surfer forgets.
For everyone who loved Surf Girls and Blue Crush--an inspirational guide for women who want to catch that wave.
Incredible Waves has just won Illustrated Book of the Year at The British Sports Book Awards! Beautiful, unique, kaleidoscopic, geometrically exquisite...perfect waves are some of Mother Nature's most alluring and mesmerizing creations. Incredible Waves is a stunning coffee-table book of photographs that capture the beauty and majesty of the world's most awesome waves. This breathtaking volume is a collection of the best recent work by 20 top surf photographers including Clark Little, Brian Bielmann, Chris Burkard, Russell Ord, DJ Struntz, Tungsten, Jeff Flindt, Ray Collins and Andrew Shield. Among the most spectacular shots are images of big-wave breaks such as Pipeline, Cloudbreak, The Right, Teahupoo and Jaws â?? waves which are as dangerous as they are enticing, for photographers as well as surfers.The stories behind the most dramatic shots are revealed in the accompanying text, along with essays and discussions about current trends in surf photography.Readers interested in improving their own photographic skills will benefit from the technique sections throughout the book which offer tips and advice for getting better shots. Everything from basic composition to underwater photography is covered, along with tips for getting the best from board-mounted miniature cameras such as the GoPro.The photos in Incredible Waves are guaranteed to thrill surfers, longboarders, kite surfers and bodyboarders alike...in fact everyone who loves looking at images of the ocean at its most spectacular.
How Design Drives Performance Have you ever wondered how changing design will effect the performance of a surfboard, wanted to really understand what your shaper, surf shop or mates are talking about when they discuss bottom curve or rocker, or more importantly why a particular surfboard goes really well or struggles to perform in some situations? The Surfboard Book includes advice stories and design details from some of the most experienced and credible subject experts in the history of the surfboard in Simon Anderson, Dick Brewer, Steve Lis and Bob McTavish: each are known not only as surfboard shapers and designers but as innovators with a combined design experience approaching 200 years. The Surfboard Book explains: elements of surfboard shape and their effects on performance construction types: from traditional to modern sandwich construction important material properties including environmental issues basic types or classes of surfboard and how they perform how to go about choosing or specifying your next surfboard
If golf is the new football, then surfing must be the new golf. People are flocking to the sport in record numbers, often defying the unforgiving British climate to make the best of what can be some world-class waves. But is it all just surf dudes in VW camper vans heading down for a week's hell-raising in Newquay? Or is the sport attracting a wider range of addicts, often eschewing the established beaches in pursuit of a more solitary, and sometimes more dangerous, goal? In SURF NATION: IN SEARCH OF THE FAST LEFTS AND HOLLOW RIGHTS OF BRITAIN AND IRELAND, Alex Wade takes the pulse of these islands' surfing credentials, and finds a growing army of devotees as well as some stunning locations. A witty and engaging mix of travelogue, reportage and guide to where to find the best breaks, SURF NATION reveals Britain and Ireland to be not just a growing hotbed of surfers but a surf destination of real credibility.

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